Diego Garcia, a remote island within the Indian Ocean, appears at first glance to be a tropical paradise, boasting vibrant foliage and immaculate white sands. However, this tiny atoll, part of the Chagos Archipelago, is far from a holiday destination. For decades, it has been off-limits to civilians, with access strictly controlled due to the presence of a highly secretive UK-US military base.
A Geopolitical Battleground
While the island is technically administered by the UK, it is a site of contention between Britain and Mauritius, with a territorial dispute stretching back many years. This conflict has recently resurfaced in global discussions, spurring fresh negotiations. The military base on Diego Garcia has played a significant role in this geopolitical tug-of-war, adding layers of complexity to the island’s history and future.
The BBC was granted rare access to Diego Garcia in a bid to cover a landmark court case concerning Sri Lankan Tamils stranded on the island. For three years, these individuals have been in limbo, leading to legal battles that questioned whether they had been unlawfully detained. The BBC’s visit represented a unique opportunity to report from an island that few civilians have ever set foot on.
A Military Island Like No Other
Diego Garcia is not just any island—it is one of the most remote in the world, located over 1,600 km from the nearest landmass. With no commercial flights and only a handful of maritime permits granted annually, entry is highly restricted. Permits are generally issued only to military personnel and those directly connected to the British authorities governing the territory.
The island plays a key role in the UK and US defence strategies, housing military operations that date back to the 1970s. Originally leased to the US in 1966, the base continues to serve as a pivotal outpost in the Indian Ocean, with the lease extended until 2036. The island’s strategic value cannot be overstated, supporting operations such as refuelling aircraft, storing military equipment, and even space observation.
A Blend of British and American Influence
Upon arrival, Diego Garcia presents a curious mix of British and American cultural influences. The Union Jack is visible on public buildings, and British police cars patrol the roads, but American school buses, currency, and electrical sockets reveal a strong US presence. The dual influence is perhaps most apparent in the cuisine, with American “tater tots” served alongside more British-style biscuits.
Despite the UK’s official control of the island, it is the US military that largely dictates the daily operations. In fact, during the BBC’s attempt to attend the court hearing for the Sri Lankan asylum seekers, US officials frequently overruled British decisions, highlighting the extent of American authority on the island.
The Ongoing Dispute Over Sovereignty
The island’s military significance is undisputed, but its legal status remains a matter of international debate. The Chagos Archipelago, including Diego Garcia, was separated from Mauritius by the UK in 1965, and since then, Mauritius has sought to regain control of the islands. The United Nations has also urged the UK to cede the territory, but Britain maintains that the islands have been under continuous British sovereignty since 1814.
In recent years, the UK has opened negotiations with Mauritius, aiming to resolve the long-standing dispute. Jonathan Powell, the former Chief of Staff to Prime Minister Tony Blair, has been appointed to lead these talks, bringing experience from his involvement in the Northern Ireland peace process. While the future of the island is uncertain, the military base is likely to remain a crucial factor in any settlement.
The Controversy Surrounding Diego Garcia’s Past
Diego Garcia’s history is marred by the forced removal of its indigenous population. In the late 1960s, the Chagossians—descendants of enslaved people brought to the island by the French and British—were evicted to make way for the military base. This dark chapter continues to fuel legal and political battles, with many Chagossians seeking the right to return to their homeland.
Adding to the island’s controversial history are rumours that it was used as a CIA black site, a location for holding and interrogating terror suspects. In 2008, the UK government admitted that rendition flights had landed on Diego Garcia, contradicting years of denials. Although officials insisted that no detainees had ever disembarked on the island, questions about its role in the global “war on terror” persist.
An Island of Natural Beauty and Secrecy
Despite its controversial past and present, Diego Garcia remains an island of breathtaking natural beauty. Its rich biodiversity includes the largest land-dwelling arthropod in the world—the coconut crab—along with a variety of marine life thriving in some of the cleanest waters and healthiest coral reefs on Earth. Yet, the island’s tranquillity is contrasted by its secretive military role, with large portions of it inaccessible to visitors.
During the BBC’s visit, restrictions were stringent. Journalists were required to wear red visitor passes and were closely monitored, with G4S personnel flown in to guard them at all times. The island’s beauty and calm atmosphere stand in stark contrast to the tension and mystery that surrounds the military operations conducted there.
What Lies Ahead for Diego Garcia?
Diego Garcia’s future remains uncertain. With Mauritius pushing for the return of the Chagos Islands and the UK seeking to protect its strategic interests, the island will likely remain a focal point of international negotiation. For now, it continues to operate as one of the world’s most secretive military bases, its status as a British Overseas Territory under constant challenge.
As a symbol of both geopolitical power and unresolved historical grievances, Diego Garcia occupies a unique and contentious place in the world—a place few will ever see, yet one that remains critical to global military operations.
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